Even though I have a lot of cameras to work with, I mainly use 2 (Start gate camera, and what I call the "chase cam." I do use a motorized gimbal to help stabilize the footage, but just mounting it to something like a pole or an inexpensive camera grip can really help out a lot. It will take some practice and experimentation to figure out how close or far to stand. Having your camera track the car down the track can really give your race some excitement instead of watching it from a distant stationary view. You should at least be recording at 60 frames per second to capture the action and reduce some of the motion blur. With my main chase camera I record at 120fps for "day time" races and 60fps for "night racing". All the track cameras record 1080p 60fps. Everything starts and stops with the push of a button. (of course if you race outside, all of these problems are solved.Īs far as cameras, I use 5 GoPro cameras all connected to 1 remote that controls them all. You also want to make sure that all of your bulbs have the same color temperature and that you're not mixing flourescent lighting from your ceiling with daylight bulbs. Good qualtiy LED bulbs shouldn't have any issue with that, but I have bought some "Great Value" LED bulbs from walmart that I couldn't use. Something also to keep in mind if you plan on using any slow mo footage is some bulbs cause a strobing effect. The nice thing about modern light bulbs is that 40,000 lumens of light only requires 368 watts of power. I have 4 soft boxes, each has about 4 LED bulbs, each bulb is rated at 2500 lumens. #1 You need lots of light, especially if you want good footage at faster frame rates. I don't have studio lights or anything fancy, but even just using daylight flood lights can be a huge gain over warm lights. Good lighting can make up for a shitty camera. See the 3DBM stuff again.he has studio lights and it makes a HUGE difference. However, the other thing that makes a big difference is lighting. But.as with everything.just try and repeat, you'll get to something you like. Getting close means I need to move the camera or have several, which can be hassle when running things by yourself. If I wanted my whole track in the shot, the cars are little dots. The problem I feel I always had was essentially scale. But I'd say using your average smartphone would be plenty.those cameras are usually pretty great. The 3DBotMaker stuff is top shelf and I know he has several cameras running that he can switch between for any given race, and I think they're GoPros (or something close to it). I've always just used my iPhone and it's done pretty well with the slow-mo turned on.
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